Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:58 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4
| JeffS wrote: |
| Cool! That's exactly what I needed to know It turns out, at least one "artifact" was my own stupidity... I didn't realize that the Hirose pins were laid out on a metric grid, and was going crazy trying to figure out why I couldn't get the traces centered on the pads, even with a 1-mil grid. Then I finally looked at the footprints and instantly realized why... |
Well, whenever you have off-center pins, either metric or imperial, I suggest you never make the grid smaller to accomodate it. Rather, you should get close to the pin, and then start from the pin with a bend style that stays centered orthogonaly to the pin and join to the trace you just stopped. The software will do an off-grid completion for you. In those instances, it helps to have an alternate grid of exactly HALF the main grid to help with preventing large angles.
I also suggest you keep an 8 mil grid and 8 mil trace, or similar (6 mil or 10 mil work also), it helps with routing. When going with board houses, they should accept 12 mil holes with 5 mils annular ring thickness or better, or else it's quite hard to do small pitch. The 2 layers eBones follows the industry's lowest common denominator of tolerances: Alberta Printed Circuits. Min drills are then 20 mil and the eBones looks pretty packed already.
| JeffS wrote: |
|
Is the parts library with the Hirose headers, board outline, etc somewhere in a Subversion repository? |
Yes. You can find it at:
https://spot-edaq.dev.java.net/source/browse/*checkout*/spot-edaq/trunk/eDAQ/Design%20Files/SunSPOT.lbr?rev=HEAD
| JeffS wrote: |
|
When you made the boards, did you solder the Hirose connectors on by hand? If so, were they relatively straightforward to do (presumably with hot air rework tool and a syringe of solder paste?), or were they a major pain? Did they behave the same way a .5mm IC would -- automagically floating into the correct position thanks to surface tension and the soldermask once the solder melted? Actually, that reminds me... after you soldered the top or bottom one in place, how did you keep it from falling off (or moving) while you were soldering the SECOND Hirose connector in place on the other side of the board? |
They were soldered using a standard soldering iron tip, albeit a very thin one. I used 20mil leaded solder and flux. I never use hot air for anything but QFP removal. You hold the connectors by hand with tweezers and everything is OK.
| JeffS wrote: |
|
How did you manage to get the boardhouse to leave the Hirose connector's alignment holes non-plated? Or did you just let them be plated, and use slightly larger diameter holes to make up for it? |
By default a hole that has no annular ring around it will not be plated. The "HOLE" command in Eagle makes Unplatted hole. I also draw drill legends to make sure it is obvious at fabrication time which holes are plated and which are not.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Tennessee Carmel-Veilleux
Technical Director, Project SONIA AUV/ASV, ETS (http://sonia.etsmtl.ca)







































































